I woke early Friday to get to the immigration bureau and re-register for my studies, a tedious and painful task but one that has to be done. So I was up at 7:00, almost unheard of for me on a day off. Kelly was up just after, since he had work, so we took a shuttle to the Luas, then the Luas into town. Usually when I take the Luas, it's nearly deserted; just two hours later, there wasn't enough room to look out the window unblocked.
Dublin (or really any Irish town) when it is waking up is a great sight: the shops and pubs have box trucks right out front, loading stock and big steel kegs of beer and Guinness, the park gates are swung open, the very haunting, very sad atmosphere that exists around 5 AM, when no one is out, not even the holdouts from clubs and parties. So for once it was refreshing to see the city as it sprang to life.
As we passed the HMV music store on Grafton Street, a man ran up to us and asked us if we could go inside and grab a wristband for his friend for some event tonight, since he had already gotten one himself. We obliged, but when we saw the name on the wristband—"Quentin Tarantino"—we realized he was coming tonight for a signing session, and the pleasure of seeing him far outstripped the pleasure of helping out an anonymous stranger. We tracked down another man to grab another wristband, however.
I've seen very few celebrities and met even less, which is actually strange, considering I've lived in the West Village of New York City. I guess I'm just not very observant, as I don't notice other people on the street too much, or at least scrutinize them enough to pick out famous faces. All I can claim as my own are Michael Myers (ugh), Billy Zane (yawn), Cindy Crawford (yay!), and Scarlett Johansson (emphatic yay!). I've met some political people, and, um, Buzz Aldrin. My share is very small, you may say. Tarantino was so unexpected to add to the list, however, and so sudden. Kelly and I made plans to meet up for the signing, then parted.
Leaving him, I headed to the Garda National Immigration Bureau, otherwise known as Where Satan Fell to Earth. For whatever reason, Immigration requires that students come no earlier than 9:30 in the morning, an hour and a half after the place opens, and thus guaranteeing that any student will be waiting for an extra two hours, at least. Discovering that it was indeed 9:30 and no earlier, I walked around Temple Bar, got some coffee, drank it at Trinity's Front Square, and generally rambled around. Even this late, none of the shops were open yet.
Back at the GNIB, I stood in line for a ticket; you have to first pass one gatekeeper who makes sure you have all the necessary documents, just to make sure you don't waste their precious time. As soon as I stood in line, I realized my fatal mistake: I had forgotten my old GNIB card from when I registered last year.
Well, it shouldn't matter, I thought,
since it's expired anyways. But it did, and I was promptly
Bounced. At 8:00, when the office opens, it would have been possible to run back home and get the card and arrive back in time to get one of the last tickets of the day (they always run out before noon). But 9:30 was just too late, so it'll wait until next week.
With absolutely nothing else to do, I took a stroll around town, and ended up at the St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, picking up a pair of earphones and a kettle at Argos. As I left, considering going home and writing instead of wasting my time wandering aimlessly around town, Simon called.
We met up and walked to Dublin Castle. A little confused, I asked him why we were here, and he reminded me that he was looking for the Mahon Tribunal—the commission set up to determine if Bertie Ahern took any bribes or distributed any graft while he was Minister for Finance during the 1990's. Bertie was testifying today, at long last, after having dodged it for nearly a year. Predictably so, because very few believe his lawyers' acrobatic interpretations of his bank statements and exchanges in cash, and the speculation for a while is anything but a straightforward and honest presentation from the Taoiseach (admittedly impossible) that completely clears him of wrongdoing will cripple him politically, maybe even forcing his resignation and a new election. In a perfect world, anyways.
The Tribunal room was not difficult to find, and we strolled in through the foyer, completely absent of security, and into the chamber, where Bertie himself sat in the witness box, sullen and hunched over and contrarian with the prosecutor. We watched him squirm, and I contemplated just how little security surrounded him: all of two Garda were in the room, back by the entrance, commiserating with each other. It's a testament to how safe Ireland is, I suppose, a suggestion which made Simon chuckle, however much it rings true with me. No bouncer has ever patted me down before I enter a club or concert in Dublin; I have never felt any sort of imminent danger on the Luas or avoid it at certain times of night when alone; bad neighborhoods exist but nothing even approaching places like in West Philadelphia. That the most important person in the country can stroll in and out of a publicly trafficked building with just two policemen is a great thing, I think.
After a recess and some more Bertie-flopping about a "personal contribution" of £8,000 sterling, we left and split up back in town. I took the Luas home and did some creative writing, something that I've been able to keep up for the past few days and which excites me, the rise in quality and quantity. I'm considering trying
National Novel Writing Month, which seems like a pie-in-the-sky dream, but the potential satisfaction of writing a book-length story before I turn twenty-one is enticing, so much so that I might be willing to sacrifice an entire month's worth of free time to the endeavor. So these writing sessions are good practice. I have a month and a half before it begins, so I may just cheat and begin beforehand, just so I'm not writing 1700 words a day (roughly four hours of work a day). What I'm thinking of is making a detailed outline, very detailed, and then just filling it out, much like I'll write an essay or blog entry, since that seems to work. Only on a massive scale. The point of "NaNoWriMo" is volume, only volume, so I'm not expecting a masterpiece, but it'll be something to tinker with, and it'll give me experience. Since the idea has stayed with me for about three weeks now, it might actually happen.
In the late afternoon I came back into town to pick up something for Mr. Tarantino to sign—unfortunately the DVD of
True Romance I picked up isn't worth much to me, since I don't have a Region 2 DVD player at the moment. I met Simon again, and he stood with Kelly and I outside of the HMV as we waited to go in, then, losing interest, headed off himself. Kelly and I waited, thick with anticipation, for an hour, passing through line after line both downstairs and up. Tarantino sat at the back of the store, characteristically enthusiastic and peppy, wearing some hideous '70s shirt and saddle shoes. Kelly went first, and I snapped a picture of him grinning wide with a thumbs-up while Tarantino signed his copy of Pulp Fiction (with a grin of his own). I guess I choked, because I briefly thanked him, then said nothing else, and forgot to turn to the man behind me so he could take a picture of the two of us (and so I have a wonderful picture of Quentin Tarantino with my right hand as I pull away from the table). It was a minor celebrity encounter, despite the massive presence of bouncers and handlers (much more than what Bertie had earlier in the day, come to think of it), and the great amount of anticipation.
Still high on our elation at meeting a modern cinematic genius (except, honestly, for the last few things he's put out...yikes), we decided to stay out and get some food at Wagamama, a Japanese restaurant on South King Street. Wagamama is set up such as you are sharing a long table with several other diners, and we ended up sitting next to two American girls from California, just on a trip to visit a mutual friend. We regaled them with our account of a utopian Ireland (in that we obviously highlighted only the good parts), and they took in our story very willingly. They lingered long after they were finished their meal, like they were waiting for something, but the obligation was on them to invite us out, so we said goodbye and they melted away into the many hydra heads of the tourist trade.
Finally, Kelly and I headed to the Duke off Grafton Street for a drink. A game from the Rugby World Cup played on a large-screen TV near the bar, neither team from Ireland, but the rapt bar-goers whooped and yelled out and spilled their drinks anyways. We took the Luas home and shuffled off to bed before midnight.